A Guide to the Tatacoa Desert
Tatacoa Desert, known in Spanish as Desierto de la Tatacoa, is an off the beaten path destination to visit in Colombia. You can find it in the department of Huila, about 7 hours south of Bogota.
Foreign tourists don’t know Huila well because getting there is a detour from the main spots. But I can assure you it’s worth visiting if you have some extra time in the country.
Tatacoa Desert offers hiking trails, photogenic labyrinths, unique red rock formations, and beautiful cacti. It reminded me a little of my home, Arizona.
A Guide to the Tatacoa Desert
Table of Contents
About Tatacoa Desert
You’ll be surprised to know the Tatacoa Desert is not really a desert. It’s a dry tropical forest, meaning the temperatures are often high and the sun is blazing. However, it rains more than expected and can’t be considered a true desert.
Tatacoa Desert is the second most arid zone in Colombia after La Guajira. You can find this 330 square kilometer desert in the department (state) of Huila, only 38 km from the city of Neiva.
When you visit the desert, you find two main areas, the red zone, and the gray zone. The red zone is called Cuzco, and the gray area is Los Hoyos.
The most visited area is Cuzco, which has similarities to the Arizona and Utah landscapes. The labyrinths make it photogenic and attract tourists to this spot the most.
The Tatacoa Desert was nicknamed the Valley of Sorrows by the conquistador Gonzalo Jimenes de Quesada, but Tatacoa refers to a rattlesnake. Once a more wet landscape, it has gradually dried up to become a desert.
Guide to Tatacoa Desert
Despite not being a highly visited area in Colombia by foreign tourists, you’ll find enough activities to do to make it worth the visit. It’s an area full of surprises. The scenery is gorgeous, and the atmosphere is incredible.
It’s a perfect getaway spot to experience the solitude and silence that only a desert offers. So get your walking shoes, your hat, and lather up in sunscreen, and you’re good to explore the beauty of this place.
You can choose to explore the Tatacoa Desert on your own, or you can hire an experienced guide that happily shows you around. They stand at the entrance of the desert and offer their services.
Here’s the list of the best things to do in the Tatacoa Desert:
What to do at the Tatacoa Desert
The Red Desert
The most famous part to visit at the Tatacoa Desert is the Red Desert. This part of the desert has red rock labyrinths to get lost in. The scenery is unusual to Colombia, and therefore local tourists and foreigners thoroughly enjoy it. It also has beautiful viewpoints from above, where you can see the landscape of the desert.
It’s easy to walk around and despite the guides telling us we could get lost if we went alone, it wasn’t that big to not find the trail back. The trail is well marked, and all you need is some comfortable hiking shoes, sunscreen, and lots of water.
The Grey Desert
Although the Red Desert gets the majority of attention, the Grey Desert is another stop to make. This hike is 8km from the center of the Tatacoa Desert. You can get there by car, tuk-tuk, bike, or ATV.
This desert is a bit more abandoned because it’s further out, but it’s still considered safe. Just make sure to hike it before the sun sets.
Piscina Mineral and Swimming Pools
Piscina Mineral, aka mineral pool, is an artificial pool at the Grey Desert. Tourists and locals use it to cool off in the middle of the desert landscape. It’s surrounded by beautiful scenery. It’s worth a stop if you have time. Just don’t forget your bathing suit.
Your other option is to book a hotel with a swimming pool. When you look up hotels, you’ll realize many have them. After spending the day in the desert heat, taking a dip in the pool is the perfect way to refresh.
Astronomical Observatory
Thanks to its remote location, few lights, and low pollution, stargazing is a popular activity in the Tatacoa Desert. You can visit the Astronomical Observatory from 7-9 pm to get a guided tour and possibly use their telescopes. It costs 10,000 COP and is only in Spanish.
Ride ATVs or Bikes
There are several ATV and bike rentals around the Tatacoa Desert. You can choose to go on a guided tour or go independently. Just be reminded that it’s hot, and biking can be a challenge because you’re working out in the heat. An ATV is more fun, faster, and less challenging.
You can use the ATV to get from the Red Desert to the Grey, enjoy the landscapes, and make stops where you want. If you choose not to rent, you can hire a tuk-tuk to take you from one place to the other. Lastly, you can get around even more easily if you have a car.
Visit Villavieja
You can go directly to the desert or add a quick stop in Villavieja. Villavieja is a small town right before the Tatacoa Desert.
It’s one of the many picturesque towns you find in Colombia and a gateway to the desert. You can find a church by the plaza and a Paleontology Museum with fossils found in the desert. We stopped here to eat some local and typical Colombian Snacks and enjoy the plaza.
You can also stop here to purchase some water or snacks if you forgot to bring some before heading to the desert.
You can use the ATV to get from the Red Desert to the Grey, enjoy the landscapes, and make stops where you want. If you choose not to rent, you can hire a tuk-tuk to take you from one place to the other. Lastly, you can get around even more easily if you have a car.
How to Get to the Tatacoa Desert
Despite being off the beaten path, the Tatacoa Desert is relatively easy to get to. However, it is time-consuming and out of the way. So be prepared for a long journey to get there.
Although there are flights to Neiva, they can be expensive because it’s a small local airport. So your best option is to fly into Bogota.
From Bogota, you’ll need to take a 7-8 hour bus ride to Neiva, the capital of the Huila department. After that, you can sleep in Neiva and then head out to the desert the next day.
In Neiva, you go back to the bus terminal you arrived at the night before to buy a ticket and take the bus directly to the Tatacoa Desert. The ride is about an hour and a half.
If the bus directly to the desert is not available, frequent buses go out to Villavieja. Take the bus to Villavieja, and in Villavieja, you take a 15-minute tuk-tuk or taxi to the desert.
You can also catch a buseta (collective or shared van) that drops you off on the main road on the way to the desert.
To get back, retrace your steps back the same way. Ask locals where you can get the buseta, or bus back and when it passes by. You can also hire a tuk-tuk to take you back.
Other Ways to Get There
You can fly to Neiva by air if you aren’t on a budget. Or, you can rent a car in Bogota and have the freedom to make stops and get around easier.
There are also 2-day Tatacoa tours from Bogota that will provide transportation and be trouble-free.
Fortunately, my friend Edwin lives in Neiva. I rode the bus from Bogota to his city. Then we used his car to get to Tatacoa Desert. We stayed in a lovely and picturesque, Instagram-ready hotel in the middle of the Desert, just past Villavieja.
I highly recommend staying here, and if you don’t have a car, I recommend renting an ATV to get around the desert.
You don’t need more than two days because there isn’t much to do besides the desert. However, if you take a few days in Neiva, you can explore other tourist spots in the department of Huila. For example, you have Mano del Gigante, thermal ponds in Rivera, San Agustin Archeological Park, Malecon de Rio Magdalena, and the small city of Neiva.
Where to Stay
You’ll want to be poolside while in the desert, so it’s best to book a hotel with a pool. It’s the best way to relax after spending the day hiking in the heat. I stayed at the cutest, most colorful hotel called Dunas Tatacoa.
This small hotel has a pool, jacuzzi, breakfast and dinner options, tents, and small cabins. If you’re into photos, this is the perfect Instagrammable spot. It’s in the middle of the desert after Villavieja and only 5k from the Tatacoa Desert.
What to Pack
If you’re only visiting for a day, you only need to take a few essential items with you. Here are some items to pack in your day pack while exploring the Tatacoa Desert.
TATACOA DESERT SAFETY
Colombia doesn’t have the best reputation when it comes to safety. However, as a female solo traveler, I can tell you I felt safe throughout the country.
The Tatacoa Desert is known as a safe destination, at least much more than the big cities of Bogota or Medellin. Just make sure to always use common sense like in the rest of Colombia.
If you decide to stay out wandering late, make sure to take a headlamp or flashlight. It is entirely dark in the desert, and you’ll need it.
Also, make sure to pack water, so you don’t dehydrate in the heat. Lastly, keep an eye out for spiders, scorpions, snakes, and rodents.
Travel Booking Resources
Book Your Flight:
To find cheap flights, check Skyscanner and Google Flights. These search engines check airlines to find you the best deals. The more flexibility you have, the better flight deals available.
Book Your Accommodation:
Booking.com is my favorite booking site for hotels but it also shows great deals on hostels and apartments. Plus, when you reach Genius Level, you get special discounts, included breakfasts, and upgrades on some hotel rooms. Hostelworld is specifically for budget travelers who enjoy hostels. This is the best place for finding great options.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance and Visa Applications:
Travel insurance will protect you against theft, injury, illness, and cancellations. Sometimes unexpected things happen during a trip and protections will keep you covered. Two great options are: Safety Wing and World Nomads. Also, iVisa can help you get a visa if you need one.
Book Tours:
Sometimes the best way to see a place is through tours. I recommend checking out Get Your Guide for some fun and unique adventures wherever you go.
Check out my other travel resources to help you book your trip!
Disclaimer: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means that if you click on a link and purchase a product, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. Please note I only recommend products and brands that I personally use or have used and believe in.
A Guide to Tatacoa Desert
