Comuna 13 in Medellin: Graffiti Tour
Comuna 13 in Medellin is a neighborhood in Colombia known for its dark past with drug wars. If you’ve heard of Pablo Escobar, the once-famous Colombian drug lord, then you probably know a bit about Colombia’s past.
In particular, the city of Medellin had a massive problem with drug wars. There were rival gangs and paramilitary, all in conflict with each other.
One neighborhood in Medellin that experienced the most crime and conflict during those dark days was Comuna 13. It became an extremely dangerous neighborhood to live in because it was the epicenter of drug movement from cartels. However, local people experienced extreme poverty and had no choice but to stay and live there.
Now, if you visit Comuna 13, you will find one of the most transformed neighborhoods in the country. What was once the most dangerous neighborhood became one of the top tourist spots in the city.
The neighborhood now thrives from art and attracts many tourists who are curious to learn a little more about the history of Comuna 13. Learning about it is as simple as visiting or hiring a guide to explain the history.
I admire the transformation this neighborhood has made, making it one of my favorite spots to visit in Medellin.
Comuna 13 in Medellin: Graffiti Tour
Table of Contents
What is the Comuna 13 in Medellin?
Comuna 13 is a low socioeconomic neighborhood in the hills of the city of Medellin. It’s easily accessible from the city, but it wasn’t always like that. In the past, Comuna 13 was one of many neighborhoods perched in the hills where people who couldn’t afford to live in the city established themselves.
When crime and cartel wars were at their highest, these residents couldn’t afford to leave the neighborhood, so they were left to go through some of the most challenging days filled with wars over drug territory.
The reason neighborhoods like Comuna 13 became so dangerous was because the city of Medellin didn’t recognize some of the comunas in the hills as legal residences. So, Comuna 13 didn’t receive help from the city for basic infrastructures and police presence.
Because of the lack of police presence and its location in the hills, Comuna 13 became the perfect place for drug trafficking in the city.
Comuna 13: The Most Dangerous Neighborhood
Medellin was already known as the most dangerous city in the world, and Comuna 13 was the most dangerous neighborhood in the city and perhaps all of South America.
In the 80s and 90s, cartels operated powerfully in the city. At Comuna 13, opposing gangs, guerrillas like the FARC, paramilitary forces, cartels, and the government all had a conflict with each other, creating ongoing wars of control.
This need for power caused a lot of bloodshed in the city. There were murders, kidnappings, disappearances, and all types of crimes. Locals lived in fear, and they had no hope of escape because of their economic status. They had to live each day wondering if they would see their loved ones again.
The city of Medellin as a whole also experienced a lot of violence. It had a high rate of drug use and crime related to the cartels. As a result, many government officials were assassinated, and thousands of people were murdered.
In 1991 alone, over 6,000 people were murdered. In that same decade, hundreds of bombs were detonated in the city. On top of that, guerrilla and paramilitary groups were trying to gain political power, which created more conflict between the government and the cartels.
A Transformed Comuna 13
In 2002, the city of Medellin launched Operation Orion to regain control of the neighborhood. They placed paramilitary groups to remove rebels. The police, army, airforce, and paramilitary groups operated in the neighborhood, eliminating militias and cartel-related groups.
The operation was dubbed a success, according to the news. However, many criticized the operation because it also took the lives of many innocent residents in the crossfire. Not all the lives were reported. Many people also simply “disappeared.”
Despite the controversy, the operation helped end a significant percentage of the drug wars going on in Comuna 13. Now, 20 years later, you find a transformed city and neighborhood. Comuna 13 is rich in art, tourism, and history. Once run by gangs and drug lords, the neighborhood is run by residents who talk to tourists and proudly show their neighborhood.
In regards to the city of Medellin, once the “most dangerous city in the world,” it was given the title of the “world’s most innovative city” by the Wall Street Journal in 2013.
All of this history is why you should visit Medellin and take a tour of Comuna 13. It’s incredible to me how a place as lovely as Medellin, which was once the murder capital, has created so much progress and, in my opinion, is one of the best cities to visit in Latin America.
Learning the history of a place is important, and it helps you understand the community a bit more. Of course, Comuna 13 isn’t free of crime, nor is Medellin. However, visiting the city allows you to learn that it’s no longer a city to fear.
In fact, it has some of the nicest people I’ve met. They are referred to as paisas. Paisas are loving, kind, hard-working people willing to keep progressing and want to keep a good image of their city. This leads me to the next point.
The Talk about Pablo Escobar
Due to Netflix documentaries and series, Pablo Escobar and cartels have become romanticized topics for many people, including Medellin tourists. Tourists visit the city with admiration for Pablo Escobar and are on the lookout for his grave, homes, anything related to him.
However, tourists forget that many paisas don’t necessarily admire Pablo Escobar. Therefore, many of them don’t talk about him nor promote tours related to him.
Despite this happening over 20 years ago, organized cartels run by Pablo Escobar and other drug lords caused much pain to Medellin residents. So many lost loved ones, and it’s not a past they are proud of. And although they will talk to you about the history and victims, you won’t find them glorifying a drug lord that caused a lot of pain to their country.
So, it’s best to be respectful and decide for yourself what type of tourism you want to do when visiting the city of Medellin. Comuna 13 will teach you about their past but mainly focus on how proud they are of their transformation through art. Then, there are tours in the city related explicitly to Pablo Escobar.
Is it Safe to Visit La Comuna 13?
Although it was once one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in Medellin and the world, you can feel perfectly fine visiting Comuna 13. It is one of the most innovative neighborhoods with escalators, art, and shops. You will find many tourists around because it’s one of the top spots to visit in Medellin.
As with all crowded places, make sure to take precautions when holding out your phone for pictures and with your bags. I found Comuna 13 to feel safe during the day and up to the night. Even as a solo female traveler, you will feel okay walking around on your own because there are lots of tourists around.
My only advice is to preferably leave early because there’s talk about it being dangerous at night. Of course, dangerous is defined differently for everyone, but the word is there is still some crime in Comuna 13. It hasn’t all disappeared despite the big turnaround it has given in the last 20 plus years. So, just be aware and head out before nine if possible.
What to See at La Comuna 13
There is no shortage of things to do in La Comuna 13. There is a beautiful art, gorgeous views, fun performances, and even huge slides to slide down from if you want to be a big kid. Here are some things you’ll see in La Comuna 13.
1. Art Murals
Comuna 13 is specifically known for its art. You will find all kinds of beautiful murals, and each one has a story behind it. Most of the art will have the artist’s name and Instagram handle where you can follow them to learn more. Or, on tour, your guide can stop to tell you more about the mural’s meaning.
2. Escalators
Comuna 13 has the famous escalators that were put in the neighborhood as a way to help the residents get around. They are equivalent to 28 floors and have greatly helped the community when trying to reach their homes. They no longer have to hike the hill which was difficult when carrying groceries or other things.
Of course, they have also been a benefit for tourism since tourists can now get around the hill to admire the art. If you prefer to exercise, you can take the stairs that are built next to the escalators
3. City Views
I love city views, and here in Comuna 13 is another spot to view Medellin from above. During the day, you can see the city’s beautiful buildings, and at night you can see the twinkling lights.
4. Food & Drinks
There aren’t many nice restaurant options around. However, there are many street food stands. This is the perfect way to try some local food. A Colombian favorite is empanadas. Give them a try. You can also find a few small coffee shops or grab some beer at one of the small bars with a view.
5. Entertainment
As you wander around Comuna 13, you’ll find locals performing dances for you. You can also find rap battles going on, and they are fun to watch. If you do stand around to watch, make sure to leave a small tip for them.
6. Shops & Souvenir Stores
As with most tourist spots, you’ll find lots of souvenirs and cool art to purchase. You can find shirts, keychains, art, hats, cups, and more. The shirts come with pictures of the famous art murals, and others say popular bad words and popular phrases used by Colombians.
7. Neon ART Museums
Not only are there murals in Comuna 13, but you can also find some cool neon art museums. One of them is even 3D, and you have to wear 3D glasses. I had the best time tripping out inside these neon art museums.
8. Social Atmosphere
Last but not least, Comuna 13 has an incredible social atmosphere. It’s perfect for going with friends and other tourists. You can find some small bars overlooking the city and grab some beer. Walk around, grab some snacks and drinks, admire the art, talk to locals, and simply enjoy this hang-out spot.
Local Tour or Self-Guided Tour?
You can visit Comuna 13 on your own or through a tour. It all depends on what you want. If you go on your own, you can simply walk around, admire the art, talk to locals, and hang out. This will only cost you the price of getting there.
There are also guided tours that you can pre-book or guides standing around at Comuna 13 offering to give you a tour. Many of these tours are free, and all they ask you for is a tip. By asking a guide to walk you around the neighborhood, you will learn about the history from a local perspective. I would say a decent tip starts at 20,000 COP.
You can also help support the community by purchasing art, souvenirs, and food and drinks.
Visiting Comuna 13 in Medellin
Visiting this popular spot and the city will change your impression of Colombia in the best way possible. Despite a certain amount of crime in the country, Medellin is no longer the dangerous city it was once. It’s the opposite. It’s probably among people’s favorite cities in the country.
This city is a rebirth of a dark past and fate. The memories remain, but the optimistic outlook of the city is what helps the city keep improving. Colombia is one of my favorite countries for its beauty and people, but Medellin is one of my favorite cities in the world for so many reasons. The way it transformed is something to admire about it.
When to Visit
One concern people have about visiting is safety. However, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting several times, during the day and the night. I loved both times for the following reasons.
In the morning, fewer tourists are around. You have the opportunity to take pictures of the murals without any rush or people around. Another benefit is getting a tour guide to explain everything and go at a slower pace. Again, there are fewer people around. However, it lacks the social and fun atmosphere of the area.
In the evening, you can catch the sunset golden hour glow of the city and the twinkling lights once it’s dark. It’s also a more lively atmosphere. There are many more tourists around, and you can enjoy the locals’ social atmosphere and performances. However, as mentioned before, Comuna 13 still faces a little bit of crime. So, it’s best not to stay there too late. I would recommend leaving before 9.
My recommendation is you go in time to catch the sunset glow. If you do the walking tour from San Javier, make sure to calculate the time and add an hour. This way, you see it during the day and take pictures of the art. Then when it’s dark, you enjoy the city view and the social atmosphere.
How to Get There
To get to Comuna 13, there are several ways. First, you can get there yourself by Metro. If you stay in Poblado, you will most likely be closest to either Aguacatala or Poblado Station. Take the blue line towards Niquia, and get off in San Antonio. From Poblado, it will be four stations, and from Aguacatala, it will be 5.
Once at the San Antonio station, you board the Metro towards San Javier, the last stop. You will get off at San Javier. Once you arrive at San Javier, you have two choices. You can take a taxi or Uber ride to Calle 10, where the main art begins, or type in Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour on your ride app.
Your other choice is to walk 2 km from the San Javier Sation. Although it’s not the official starting place of graffiti, you can find art along the way and learn even more. Many guided tours start from this spot. If you go on a self-guided tour, you can do this too. The walk is uphill, but you get to enjoy more art.
The next option is to take an Uber from where you’re staying. A ride may cost anywhere from 14,000 COP to 20,000 COP, depending on where you’re staying and the time of the day.
Lastly, you can reserve a tour online through Airbnb or other local tours offered in the city.
Pictures of Comuna 13
There is so much art in Comuna 13. You can support the local artists by following their social media pages or purchasing art from local stores. So many of them now depend on tourism for a living, and your purchases go a long way. So make sure to tip performers, buy something locally, and tip your guide.
What to Pack for Colombia
Are you visiting Colombia soon? Here are some things to pack while exploring the country.
Travel Booking Resources
Book Your Flight:
To find cheap flights, check Skyscanner and Google Flights. These search engines check airlines to find you the best deals. The more flexibility you have, the better flight deals available.
Book Your Accommodation:
Booking.com is my favorite booking site for hotels but it also shows great deals on hostels and apartments. Plus, when you reach Genius Level, you get special discounts, included breakfasts, and upgrades on some hotel rooms. Hostelworld is specifically for budget travelers who enjoy hostels. This is the best place for finding great options.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance and Visa Applications:
Travel insurance will protect you against theft, injury, illness, and cancellations. Sometimes unexpected things happen during a trip and protections will keep you covered. Two great options are: Safety Wing and World Nomads. Also, iVisa can help you get a visa if you need one.
Book Tours:
Sometimes the best way to see a place is through tours. I recommend checking out Get Your Guide for some fun and unique adventures wherever you go.
Check out my other travel resources to help you book your trip!
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Comuna 13 in Medellin
Comuna 13 in Medellin: Graffiti Tour
